March 27, 1863, American Citizen (Canton, Mississippi)
Impelled thereto by business engagements, we last week made a short visit to Vicksburg, taking in our route Calhoun, Madison, Tagaloo, Shotwell’s tank, Jackson, Clinton, Bolton’s, Edward’s, Bovina, “and all intermediate landings.” From the route we took, as indicated by the above names, it will be reasonably inferred that we traveled “by rail.” Such was certainly our intention, but in it we failed. “The best laid schemes of mice and men gang aft aglee.”
In our peregrinations we saw but little that was interesting or noteworthy, consequently we took no “notes,” though we did take “note of time,” as TIME–however much “tempus” may “fugit,” was not a fast fugitive to us, but rather hung heavily upon our hands while away from “the young folks at home.” In former times–before grim war’s dreadful alarums resounded throughout the land–it was a pleasure and a benefit to any man to take a short respite and recreation from business in a trip to the “Hill City,” or the “Crescent City;” but now, in these times of “war and pestilence and famine,” the very worst punishment that could be inflicted upon a man would be to compel him to leave home and travel on railroads and take lodgings and meal-s at the hotels.
The first feature that presents itself to the mind of the wayfaring man is, the great number of soldiers that are continually “going to and fro, up and down in the earth,” crowding all the cars on all the railroads;–the next is, the vast number of soldiers–officers, especially,–that are found at all the railroad depots of any note, and in all the towns along the lines of railroads. At Jackson we tarried a day. The city was alive with soldiers, and it seemed to us that every third man we met was an officer, had on shoulder straps, or a “spangle” of some sort to indicate that the wearer was something more than a “common soldier.” The inquiry naturally arises, What are all these officers and soldiers doing out of camps? Why are they not with their regiments, on duty, in active service? There were, it seemed to us, a sufficient number of officers and men walking about the streets of Jackson to form a full regiment. How it is that so many men, able-bodied and healthy, are enabled to shirk their duty and keep out of the service, passeth our comprehension. While thousands are thus loitering about the cities, towns and railroad stations, all over the Confederacy, of no benefit whatever to the great cause in which we are engaged, the plea is made here in Mississippi by our sapient Governor, that the danger at present is so imminent that not a man can be spared from the field, and that the very salvation of the country depends upon retaining the militia in active service!–many of whom are old men not fit for military duty, but who ought to be at home, superintending their crops and raising bread and meat to supply the demands of the army and the people. The Confederate authorities should at once call all stragglers to the field, and Governor Pettus should disband the militia without further delay. He has committed an error in keeping them in the field up to the present time; the longer he persists in that error–to gain a reputation as “a man of firmness and decision of character”–the greater will be the detriment to the agricultural interests of the State, and to his own fair fame. Disband the “melish,” Governor, disband the “melish,” and let them raise corn, and you’ll raise yourself in the estimation of everybody.
We found Jackson decidedly “a hard road to travel,” and had we traveled in a ‘chaise,’ we would have found it much more so. The several roads from the depot to the business part of the city are the worst we have ever seen–an almost unfathomable mass of mud. We saw a large horse in a small wagon containing a small trunk, threading his way through this loblolly. He “made the trip,” but it was by straining every nerve and sinew to its greatest tension. We saw a four-mule team, with only one box in the wagon, come to a dead stall, while only two of the wheels were in the mud, the other two being on hard ground. The mules had to be taken out and the wagon abandoned for the time. But the mud is not all that makes Jackson a “hard road to travel.” The spirit of speculation and extortion and extortion runs rampant in Jackson, as, indeed, does it in almost every other place in the Confederacy. We priced some things, which will give an idea of the whole catalogue of commodities. Seed Irish potatoes are $30 per bushel; molasses, $2.50 per gallon; sugar 50c., butter $1.50 per lb; eggs, $1.50 per doz.; soft hats $30; boots, $60; &c. “That is sufficient!” as Tom Haines said when he saw the elephant.
In reference to the important matter of something to eat, the following, told by the Hinds Co. Gazette, accords admirably with our experience:
” A hungry friend of ours went into a hotel, not twenty miles from Raymond, one day last week. In due time the bell announced that dinner was ready. Our friend made rapid strides for the dining room. On entering it an official reminded him that $1 was to be paid. He paid it and took a seat at the table. The table was large and well filled with hungry men, but contained but two dishes–poor beef and the commonest sort of corn bread. Our friend doubted the ability of two such dishes, without support, to appease his appetite. He modestly inquired of a waiter if there was no butter. The reply was affirmative, but with the remark, “that’s extra.” “Very well,” said our friend, “bring me some any how.” A piece as large as a turkey’s egg was brought, with the intelligence, “four bits, if you please, sir.” The four bits were paid. “Have you no milk?” inquired our friend. “Yes,” replied the waiter, “but that’s extra.” “Give me a glass any how,” said our friend. In due time a glass of milk appeared, with “four bits, if you please, sir.” The four bits were paid. And thus our friend and the waiter when through with four eggs for four bits and a cup of rye and sweetened water for four bits, and two hard biscuits for four bits, &c., &c. When our friend got through he found that he had swallowed a very common dinner, and very little of it, and that it cost him just four dollars and a half! Is the country exhausted, or does that man at Jackson who wants “all the corn, all the meal, all the pork, and all the rice,” get it all, and then let it out by the four bit’s worth as above illustrated? “
In the still more important matter of lodging, this is our experience: we lodged at the “––––– House,” slept–or, rather, assumed a recumbent posture during a part of the night–with another gentleman, on a single mattrass, (not much margin on either side,) with about a handful of feathers to bolster up our head; not a single chair in the room nor to be had, and “everything else in proportion.” For these elegant and commodious accommodations we tendered to the clerk one dollar, on receiving which he remarked that a half dollar more was due. We were glad that it was not a dollar more, and handed it over with “promptness and dispatch.”
On Wednesday, we reluctantly continued our trip towards Vicksburg on the cars. It was very desirable to have our life insured before entering upon this perilous journey, but so dangerous is it considered to travel on this road, that no company would insure a man’s life for a sevenpence who intended to pass over it. We were glad, however, to perceive evidences of improvement along the road. The new President, Victor F. Wilson, is said to be an energetic, working man, and has gone to work vigorously in repairing the track……We got on very well until we arrived within about six miles of Vicksburg when the iron horse was suddenly reined up, and it was soon announced to the anxious passengers that a culvert had caved in, and it was impossible for the cars to proceed.–The alternative was thus left to the passengers either to wait until word could be sent to the city and a flat car sent out, or to walk the distance of six miles. A majority, we believe, chose the latter horn of the dilemma, sharp as it was, and proceeded as rapidly as possible to lessen the distance between them and the city. We had not proceeded far before we came to a very long bridge spanning a very deep ravine; at each end of this bridge was stationed a soldier whose instructions were to let no footman pass. This is one instance of the foolish, absurd and preposterous orders sometimes issued by military men. Here we were with our Provost passes, permitting us to go to Vicksburg, but because we were not in the cars, we were not allowed to cross on the bridges, but were compelled to walk down and up three long hills, such hills as Warren county and the city of Vicksburg alone can boast of. As it was the last feather that broke the camel’s back, so it was the walking up the last of these hills that “got us down.” When we arrived at Vicksburg we were pretty much in the condition of the Yankee’s “keow”–we had “well nigh gin eout.”
What we saw and heard in the “Hill City” we must reserve for another chapter, as, since we commenced this article, much copy has come in of a more important and interesting character. We will say, however, our observations induce us to believe that Vicksburg can be held in defiance of any number of men that can be brought against her.